Climbing in the Olympics: What to Expect in 2024
The 2024 Paris Olympics are rapidly approaching, igniting a wave of anticipation and excitement among climbing enthusiasts. The opening ceremony, a grand spectacle, is set to captivate the world in just under two months, on July 26th. Climbing, a sport that has been steadily gaining popularity, is returning for its second time after a thrilling debut in the 2020 (2021) Tokyo Olympic Games. However, with this new stage comes some highly anticipated changes to the competition format and the opportunity for more athletes to take the stage, adding to the thrill and excitement of the event.
A Brief Recap of the Tokyo Olympics
In 2021, the Olympic Committee gave Sport Climbing two gold medals, meaning there could be one event for males and one for females where three athletes would podium. Typically, International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) competitions have three events athletes can medal in: Lead, boulder, and Speed. To remedy the situation, climbers had to qualify and compete in all three disciplines (lead, boulder, and speed) at the Tokyo Olympics. For those aware of the nuances in climbing, many athletes specialize in either boulder and lead or speed, as the training is very different for the latter. As exciting as it was to witness the inauguration of climbing at the Olympics, the format proved challenging for athletes who had to adopt new training plans to compete at a high level in all three disciplines.
Looking Ahead to Paris 2024
Fast forward to the approaching summer Olympics in Paris. The Olympic Committee, recognizing the immense talent and dedication of Sport Climbing athletes, has given the sport 12 medals, or four gold medal events, enabling a format change reflective of the IFSC competitions. This time, athletes have been able to compete to qualify for a spot in the Boulder & Lead or the Speed competition in Paris. This change not only creates a more familiar competition experience for the athletes but also opens up the opportunity for more climbers to represent their country on the biggest sports stage, a testament to their hard work and skill.
For those with more questions about the nitty-gritty details, we’ve answered some of the most common questions regarding climbing in the Olympics.
Climbing in the Olympics: What to Expect in 2024 Q&A
- How many climbers will be in Paris?
Sixty-eight climbers will have the opportunity to compete in Paris. Twenty athletes per gender will compete in the Combined Boulder and lead discipline. The remaining 28 spots, divided into 14 men and 14 women, will go to speed climbers.
- How many countries will be represented in climbing in Paris?
Each National Olympic Committee, representing a diverse range of countries, can have a maximum of two men and two women qualify for each event (Boulder & Lead, Speed). The official number of countries represented in Sport Climbing will be live at the end of June 2024. The final quotas are awaiting assignment after the conclusion of the Olympic Qualifier Series Part II: Budapest. This global representation in the event not only showcases the universality of climbing but also fosters a sense of connection and engagement among climbing fans worldwide.
- What will the competitions look like?
Check out this short and simple video the official Olympic Committee published explaining how the climbing competitions will work in Paris and how they will determine a winner.
- What are the dates for watching Climbing?
The Sport Climbing portion of the Olympic Games will take place over six days, starting Monday, August 5th, and ending Saturday, August 10th.
Times are listed as UTC+2:00
- Monday, 5 August – 10:00 AM to 2:00 PM
Men’s Semi-final Boulder, Women’s Speed Seeding and Elimination Rounds
- Tuesday, 6 August – 10:00 AM to 2:00 PM
Women’s Boulder Semi-final,
Men’s Speed Seeding and Elimination Rounds
- Wednesday, 7 August – 10:00 AM to 1:15 PM
Men’s Semi-Final Lead, Women’s Speed Quarterfinals, Semifinals, and Finals
- Thursday, 8 August – 10:00 AM to 1:15 PM
Women’s Semi-final Lead, Men’s Speed Quarterfinals, Semifinals, and Finals
- Friday, 9 August – 10:15 AM to 1:20 PM
Men’s Boulder Final, Men’s Lead Final
- Saturday, 10 August – 10:15 AM to 1:20 PM
Women’s Boulder Final, Women’s Lead Final
- Who is representing the US in Paris?
US Speed Climbers Emma Hunt, Piper Kelly, and Samuel Watson have qualified. In Boulder, lead athletes Natalia Grossman, Jesse Grupper, and Colin Duffy have qualified. These athletes qualified in 2023 at either the FSC World Championship Bern 2023 or the Pan American Games 2023.
- How many athletes can still qualify for the US and globally?
[as of June 23, all spots have been claimed with the final spots going to Brooke Raboutou and Zach Hammer]
One quota spot remains for US females in the Boulder and Lead discipline. The four females competing for that spot are Brooke Raboutou (2020 Olympic Climber), Anastasia “Annie” Sanders, Kyra Condie (2020 Olympic Climber), and Kylie Cullen.
One quota spot remains for US males in the Speed competition. Three men, John Brosler, Zach Hammer, and Noah Bratschi, are competing in the Olympic Qualifier Series set to wrap up on June 23rd for the final spot.
Overall, 16 out of 40 athletes, eight from each gender, have qualified for Boulder and Lead. Seven men and seven women, out of 14 for each gender, have qualified for Speed.
Get ready because the 2024 Paris Olympics will be here before you know it, and 68 climbers, 40 in boulder and lead and 28 in Speed, will take the floor at the Le Bourget Climbing Venue just outside Paris, France, and fight for gold. The Le Bourget Climbing Venue is a state-of-the-art facility designed specifically for sport climbing, making it the perfect stage for the world’s best climbers to showcase their skills. With Speed separated from boulder and lead, you’ll witness the fastest climbers from around the globe go head to head. Boulder and lead athletes will vie to solve problems faster and climb higher than their competitors, aiming to score up to 200 points across both disciplines. Check out the IFSC Climbing Instagram for pictures of the venue, and read the pinned posts for more information on the Olympic qualification process, speed format guide, and boulder & lead format guide. The countdown is on, and it’s time to get excited to cheer on the climbers as they display incredible strength and athleticism!
