America’s First Olympic Climbing Team
Article by Mike Paukner
According to ancient texts and historical records, the first Olympic Games can be traced back to 776 BC. This ancient tradition has withstood the test of time, and now being an Olympic champion is one of the most coveted dreams for aspiring athletes.
In 2020, at least 16 countries have representation in the first Olympic games to include rock climbing! Some of the worlds strongest climbers will be in attendance, putting even more pressure on the USA’s young team.
3 American climbers have already secured their spot, but how did they get here?
UPDATE: As of March 24, 2020 the International Olympic Committee (ICO) has decided to postpone the 2020 games until 2021 as a precaution to limit the spread of the COVID-19 pandemic. We will keep you up to date on this decision, but to see what we’re doing for our community and members, click here. Also, Colin Duffy claimed the final American Male spot with his win at the Pan-American Championship.
UPDATE: The IOC has announced the new dates for the Olympics will be from June 23, 2021 to August 8, 2021.
Brooke Raboutou
The daughter of former climbing world cup champions Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou and Didier Raboutou, climbing was always in Brooke’s blood. She started climbing at the tender age of 1 in Boulder, Colorado.
Brooke’s streak of breaking climbing records is astounding. She was the first 9 year old to climb V10, and the first 10 year old to climb V11. After then becoming the youngest person in the world to climb 5.14b, at age 11, it was abundantly clear Brooke was on the road to an impressive climbing career.
At the 2019 IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing) Climbing World Championships held in Hachioji, Japan, 253 athletes competed for 7 qualifying spots in the 2020 Olympics. Brooke’s combined scores for bouldering, lead, and speed were enough to qualify with a 9th place finish. Now a V13 boulderer and a house-hold name in climbing competition, Brooke looks to bring home Gold as the first member of the United States’ rock climbing team.
Nathaniel Coleman
First introduced to climbing at age 9, Nathaniel Coleman has made a name for himself as one of the United State’s strongest boulderers. A native of Utah, and a self-proclaimed sandstone lover, Nathaniel has been a mainstay in bouldering competitions since 2012.
Nathaniel’s list of competition wins is impressive to say the least. Starting as a youth competitor, he won the USA Climbing Youth Bouldering Nationals in 2012, 2014, 2015, and 2016. Then, from 2016 to 2018, he won three straight USA Climbing Bouldering Open National Championships, then finished 2nd in 2019. Suffice it to say, climbing competitions are where Nathaniel feels most at home.
His cool-headed demeanor was on display at the IFSC Combined Qualifier in Toulouse, France in 2019. His stellar showing in the bouldering category was enough to propel him into qualification territory.
Though he has less experience in lead and speed competitions, his track record in bouldering competitions clearly showcases why Nathaniel Coleman is Team USA’s second qualified rock climber.
Kyra Condie
A rock climber since the age of 10, Kyra Condie epitomizes dedication to the sport. She found climbing when she attended a friend’s birthday at a small climbing gym in Minnesota. Shortly after, she was training with the gym’s competitive team. She quickly progressed, and qualified for Youth Bouldering Nationals within her first year on the team. Unfortunately, it wasn’t long before she received news that no young athlete wants to hear.
Kyra was diagnosed with severe idiopathic scoliosis at age 13 and doctors told her climbing may not be the sport for her. After interviewing several surgeons, she underwent spinal fusion surgery in 2010, and returned to competitive climbing after several months of recovery.
Her fused spine makes some static, technical movement harder, so Kyra prefers to move quickly and trust her strong fingers. Kyra credits her aggressive, dynamic climbing style to the overhung training wall she utilized when she first started climbing. She follows a strict training regiment, instilled in her by many late-night solo training sessions.
Kyra returned to competition in 2011, and won the Youth Bouldering National Championship in 2012, 2013, and 2014. She has since competed in IFSC competitions all over the world, and has cemented herself as an elite rock climber. Her finish in the IFSC Combined Qualifier in 2019 secured her spot on the USA’s Olympic climbing team, where she hopes her mentality of giving maximum effort will prove effective.
Colin Duffy
This 16 year old young gun took the nation and the competitive climbing world by storm with his incredible win at the Pan-American Championship that secured his place in history as the second male Olympic athlete for Team USA. Edging out stiff competition from compatriots like Zach Galla, Zander Waller, and Sean Bailey.
The difference was Colin’s thrilling top of the final competitive lead climb that clinched his victory over Galla.
The nine-time US youth champion and two-time youth world champion is just scratching the surface of his potential. This past October, he sent three (3) 5.14 climbs at the Red River Gorge so as all eyes watch these competitors closely, everyone is interested to see what else this Olympic athlete is capable of both at the competitive and recreational level.
Follow the Road to the Olympics
Tune in to the 2020 Olympic games from Tuesday, August 4th to Friday, August 7th to see these competitors and more represent our amazing sport for the first time! Rock Spot Climbing will continue to provide updates and hype, so check back to learn more and get psyched!
Our next Olympic article explains the IOC‘s decision to postpone the 2020 games until 2021 as a precaution to limit the spread of the COVID-19 pandemic so check it out along with our primer for Olympic Sport Climbing here.
Current & Upcoming Articles
- Olympic Sport Climbing
- 2020 Olympics Postponed
- A Closer Look at Competitive Climbing
- More to come!
