Finding the right pair of climbing shoes can be much like Cinderella and the glass slipper. Many folks try to shove their feet into shoes that are too small, while others get a pair that breaks in and becomes too big.
How do you find the right climbing shoes? First, you need to understand the various climbing styles. Once there, you’ll learn the different types of climbing shoes and the nuances of each, and how they’re catered toward the different climbing styles. Don’t worry, while this may be a lot to learn, the information is pretty straightforward. So, let’s get started and learn about climbing styles.
Understand the Different Climbing Styles
- Bouldering – Climbing without a harness, typically 12-15 feet in the air on large boulders.
- Sport climbing – Climbing with ropes on prebolted routes, anywhere from 30 to 150+ feet in a single pitch.
- Trad (traditional) – Similar to sport climbing, but using removable protection.
- Gym vs. Outdoor – Straightforward: climbing in the gym or outdoors.
Each climbing discipline has a stereotypical shoe. Boulderers usually have very aggressive (banana-shaped) shoes. Sport climbers’ shoes are not as aggressively curved, but are not typically flat. Traditional shoes are either extremely soft or extremely stiff, with a flat sole.
This isn’t a one-size-fits-all type of answer, however, and many different climbers enjoy using shoes that may not be the stereotypical choice for their climbing discipline. Further, it depends on what angle of the wall one is climbing. An overhung climbing route will cater toward aggressive shoes, while a slab wall will tend to require flatter shoes. More on shoe types below:
Know the Types of Climbing Shoes
- Neutral – Flat, symmetrical shoes that are good for beginners, those who want something comfortable for all-day climbing, or those looking to jam their feet into cracks.
- Moderate – The middle line between neutral and aggressive. These are the jack-of-all-trades shoes. They perform well at most styles of climbing, yet aren’t amazing at any one style.
- Aggressive – These are your banana-shaped, extra-toe-powered shoes, designed for steep overhung routes.
The more downturned a shoe is, the more power of the foot is centered toward the big toe. The idea is to concentrate the power into one point, making it easier to stand on smaller holds. The flatter the shoes, the more widespread the power is.
Consider Fit and Sizing
Sizing climbing shoes is unlike any other kind of shoe you’ll buy. Most will stretch and mold to your feet for a completely customized fit. Don’t make the mistake many do and buy shoes that fit perfectly or are slightly too big right out of the box. What happens is that they become too large when broken in, and then feel sloppy when climbing.
Shoes that are too big can compromise your climbing, but so can shoes that are too small. If your shoes are painful every time you put them on, it’s going to be hard to focus on the climbing. You want the Goldilocks approach. Not too tight, not too loose; just right.
When buying shoes, consider the material they’re made out of and discover how much they will stretch. Leather shoes can sometimes stretch to accommodate multiple sizes. Synthetic shoes will slightly stretch, while shoes made from materials like hemp will likely not stretch much.
If you decide to buy shoes online without trying them on in person first, be prepared to return one or two pairs. The best thing you can do in this situation, if possible, is to order multiple pairs. A pair you think will fit, then a half size up and a half size down from this. You can then return the pairs that do not fit!
Closure Systems: Laces, Velcro, or Slip-Ons?
Yes, there is even more nuance to climbing shoes. Do you want laces, Velcro, or slip-ons? There is no “right” answer to this question; there is only personal preference.
Laces can offer a truly customizable fit. You can adjust and fine-tune various aspects of the entire shoe. However, putting them on and taking them off can be a hassle.
Velcro is super quick to put on and great for when you’re moving quickly! Although the fit isn’t nearly as customizable as laces.
Slip-ons are the easiest shoes to get on. However, they’re not the most structurally sound and have been known to become ‘slip-offs’ during certain movements, such as heel-hooking.
What Shoes are Right for You?
Look, discovering the right climbing shoes can take some time. If you’re brand new to rock climbing, a neutral flat is perfect to help you learn technique and be comfortable enough to wear all day.
As you progress, grab a pair of moderate shoes that can “do it all.” Then, if your climbing journey calls for it, consider grabbing more downturned shoes suited to steeper climbing!
