Fingers (Pulleys)
- Crimping and half-crimping small edges
- Hanging from pockets, slopers, and pinches
- Statically holding positions while your feet move
- Hangboarding / fingerboarding: Controlled hangs with different grip types (full crimp, half crimp, open hand).
- Campus board (for advanced climbers): Dynamic moves that build finger power and contact strength.
- No-hang finger exercises: Place your fingers on a training edge and gently load them while keeping your feet on the ground to build strength with less risk.
Shoulders
- Pulling through overhangs
- Making long reaches and deadpoints
- Locking off holds while you move your feet
Exercise: IYT Raises
- Choose a light, comfortable weight (dumbbells or plates).
- Hinge forward slightly at the hips with a neutral spine.
- Lift your arms out to the sides into a “T” shape with a slight bend in your elbows. Lower with control.
- Next, lift your arms straight in front of you into an “I” position, pinkies facing the ground. Lower with control.
- Finally, lift your arms into a “Y” shape overhead, pinkies still facing down. Lower with control.
Scapulae (Shoulder Blades)
- Initiating pulls on overhangs
- Keeping tension when you’re extended on big moves
- Protecting the shoulders during dynos and campusing
Exercise: Scapular Pull-Ups
- Hang from a pull-up bar with straight arms and engaged core.
- Without bending your elbows, pull your chest slightly upward by drawing your shoulder blades down and together (like a shrug in reverse).
- Lower back to a relaxed hanging position with control.
You can also practice a similar motion with light weights at your sides, but hanging is more specific to climbing. Focus on smooth, controlled reps.
Wrists
- Rotating hands on slopers and pinches
- Stabilizing during underclings and gastons
- Matching or bumping hands on the same hold
Exercise: Wrist Curls and Rotations
- Sit or kneel with your forearm resting on a flat surface, wrist and hand hanging off the edge.
- Hold a lightweight and slowly curl your wrist up and down.
- You can also move the weight side to side to strengthen different planes of motion.
Core
- Maintaining body tension on overhangs
- Controlling swings after dynamic moves
- Keeping hips close to the wall for better friction and balance
- Bar core work: Hanging leg raises, knee tucks, and windshield wipers while hanging from a bar mimic climbing positions and improve control.
- Tension/compression training: Moves that require squeezing between hands and feet (compression) or keeping your body rigid between widely spaced holds. Practice these with controlled, slow reps on easier terrain.
- Lower back engagement: Exercises such as flutter kicks, scissor kicks, and leg lifts help you build the lower back and hip control needed for precise foot placement.
Legs
- Quads: Drive you upward when you stand on footholds.
- Hamstrings: Help control your descent and stabilize your knees.
- Glutes: Support hip stability and extension for high steps and rock-overs.
- Hips: Allow you to twist, flag, and reposition your center of gravity.
- Calves and toes: Keep you engaged on small footholds and help with toe hooks and precise edging.
Exercise: Jump Squats
- Start standing with feet about shoulder-width apart.
- Squat down until your knees are roughly at 90 degrees.
- Drive through your feet and jump as high as you can, swinging your arms naturally.
- Land softly with bent knees to absorb impact.
- To progress, add light weights or try single-leg variations once your form is solid.
Exercise: Single-Leg Compass Squats
- Stand tall on one leg with a slight bend in the knee.
- With your free leg, reach forward and tap the ground lightly as you perform a small squat on the standing leg. Return to center.
- Repeat, reaching the free leg to the left, behind you, and to the right, tapping the ground each time.
- Keep your knee aligned with your hips and ankles throughout the movement to avoid strain.