Stories of a Collegiate Climber National Championships

Stories of a Collegiate Climber: National Championships

Pool together the top one hundred male and female collegiate climbers in the United States for a weekend of competition, and you end up with something between a house party, class reunion, and world-cup-style competition. But before I can explain how all three scenarios came under one roof, I must catch you up on how you make it to the USA Climbing Collegiate National Championships.

How To Qualify for National Championships

As a college student, you have four years of eligibility to compete in the USA Collegiate Series. This means you can participate in the series anytime during your four years of college. Although streamlined, the process will seem very similar if you were a former youth competitor. From November to March, eight divisions host collegiate qualification events (QE) in Boulder and Lead. New for the 2023-2024 season, athletes could pick whether they competed in the intermediate or advanced category for their gender. Upon completing one QE, the climber can compete in their division championship competition in April. It’s at this event where climbers receive tickets to Collegiate Nationals. Formerly, the top 13 advanced male and female athletes in boulder and lead would advance. With the addition of an intermediate category, the top five athletes in each category now qualify. However, like my story, where I qualified in the lead round at divisional championships, you can also compete in boulders and speed at nationals.

The Nationals Experience: Party meets Competition

Collegiate Nationals is a breath of fresh air, a departure from the intense competitions of the USA youth circuit. DJs set the mood with music, parents, and climbers mingle, laugh, and share pizzas, and strangers become friends, cheering you on or wishing you luck. It’s not just a competition; it’s a celebration. The atmosphere is more akin to a family barbecue than a cutthroat competition, and it’s wonderfully chaotic.

For competitors, the intensity of the weekend is what you make it. I competed in women’s advanced alongside ~100 other females in boulder and lead. However, only the top 20 for each discipline advanced to finals. With former youth champions and Team USA athletes like Nekaia Sanders among the competition, vying for a spot in the top 20 was an unrealistic goal for my skillset. Many others were in the same bost, as ending up in the top 20% when you only have one attempt per lead route and four minutes per boulder is challenging. For myself and others in the same boat, you can focus on taking down the greatest competition anyone can face: themselves. The party atmosphere and positive vibes from all parties make it a fantastic experience regardless of place. Enjoying the sets created by USA Climbing’s best setters, making new friends, or reuniting with old ones, and putting all of your training to the test culminates in an unforgettable weekend.

The Takeaways

If you have yet to gather it, I was not the strongest or most skilled competitor. In both disciplines, I placed in the bottom 40%. But did I have an exciting and fun two days? 100 percent! The journey to Nationals was long and took a lot of hard training, but at Nationals, I could focus on having fun. The routes and boulders had creative, challenging moves like funky press moves, coordination toe catches, and paddle dynos, leaving me smiling even when I fell. The energy in the gyms was electric, and the competitors, staff, and families cheering on their athletes were so kind and encouraging. One memorable light-hearted interaction occurred after my only flash of the competition. The older gentleman judging the boulder joked that he needed to confirm the number of attempts with me (it was one). I also met friends of friends, connecting over a sweatshirt I wore with the name of my home gym across the back.

If I had the chance, I’d return to Nationals in a heartbeat. I encourage you to do it if you’re considering challenging yourself to compete for a spot. You’ll gain more than just a competition experience. You’ll learn about your strengths, limits, and the power of the climbing community. College is the time to challenge yourself and have fun, so let climbing be a part of that narrative.

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Summer Training Tips
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Summer Training Tips: Beat the Heat

In most of the U.S., summer is synonymous with heat. Hot and humid days become more frequent. The sweat dial gets turned to ‘max.’ It can become challenging to avoid slogging through your workouts. Even the advent of air-conditioned indoor climbing facilities can’t always quell summer’s oppressive temperatures and dankness. Yet, as a sport without a proper off-season, climbing doesn’t stop for the heat. Whether grinding out fitness sessions in the gym or heading outdoors, climbers can battle the heat and walk away with gains and sends under their belts. To help shore up your armor against the scorching temperatures and stifling humidity, here are five summer training tips to beat the heat!

Spruce Up Your Water with Electrolytes

You hear it every summer season (likely in your mom’s voice): “Drink your water!” As obnoxious as it may seem to have every other person, news page, and social media post telling you to hydrate, it is essential. However, as an athlete undergoing hard training sessions and sweating buckets, you’ll want to spruce up your water with electrolytes. Thankfully, they are all the craze in 2024, with many brands offering electrolyte products. These products are not just a trend, they are a convenient way to enhance your hydration, recovery, and energy. Choose from various flavors, forms (powder, tablet, sparkling), and ingredients. Even if you aren’t the person dripping with sweat as they leave the gym, incorporating an electrolyte drink, at the minimum on your most challenging training days, will enhance your hydration, recovery, and energy. Not to mention, they taste delicious! See the list of popular brands.

  • Skratch Labs – Choice of The TraingBeta Podcast Host, Neely Quinn
  • Nuun – Known for their electrolyte tablets that add fizz
  • LMNT – Electrolyte Choice of American Neuroscientist and Huberman Lab podcast host Andrew Huberman
  • Other brands popular among consumers: DripDrop, LiquidIV, Gnarly Nutrition

 

Wear loose, lightweight clothing.

Choosing to enhance your hydration is helpful to sustain and recover from intense activity, but another way to beat the heat is by opting for lightweight and loose clothing. Moisture-wicking features like Nike’s Dri-Fit technology are fantastic, but high-quality cotton and linen work well too. It’s likely self-explanatory, but it is worth mentioning that tank tops and shorts will be your best friends. These loose, lightweight clothes will keep you comfortable and ready for your training. If you need to wear longer pants to protect your knees or harness them comfortably, look for linen or other lightweight materials. Many outdoor and climbing clothing companies have designed products with heat in mind, leaving you with plenty of stylish options.

Opt to Climb Early Morning or Later Evening

Generally, the coolest parts of summer days are the early morning or later evening. Avoid mid-day climbing sessions, especially if venturing outside. Humidity will be highest in the early morning, so if you’re climbing in an area with high heat and humidity, you may want to pencil in training for those later evening hours.

 

Consider antiperspirant for Hands and Feet.

Sweaty summer sessions mean extra sweaty hands and feet, which is not ideal for climbers. No one wants to chalk up only to touch the first hold, and it’s all gone, nor do they want to add to the funk of their climbing shoes. If you haven’t tried an antiperspirant product before, summer is the time to try. Rhino is the best-known brand in the climbing community, offering three sweat-stopping products: Performance, Dry, and Tip-Juice. They’ve bundled all three at a discounted price in the Rhino Sweat Block Bundle. However, it’s important to note that some climbers may have skin sensitivities or concerns about the impact on their climbing equipment, so it’s always best to test these products in a controlled environment before using them during a climb.

Another effective solution for sweaty hands is liquid chalk. This alternative tends to dry out hands faster than powdered chalk, providing a reliable grip. For even faster drying, consider liquid chalk with alcohol, a potent drying agent.

 

Hydrate All Day, Every Day

The final summer training tip to beat the heat loops back to our first tip under the hydration umbrella. Remembering to consume fluids when actively working out or thirsty is easy. But to prevent dehydration, heat stroke, lethargy, and poor performance, you should hydrate daily. Start your morning with water and make sure you’ve sufficiently hydrated before climbing sessions. Continue to hydrate after training, and don’t slack off on rest days! Although you may not need the electrolyte or sugary beverages on rest days, hydrating with water or seltzer will ensure you’re ready to go on climbing days.

Don’t let the heat win this summer. You have a toolkit of tips to give you a leg up. You can easily stay healthy and safe by incorporating electrolytes, wearing appropriate clothing, strategically timing your workouts, using antiperspirants or drying agents, and consistently hydrating. If there are any other summer training tips that you love, comment them below to help out fellow climbers.

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What to Wear for Your First Time Climbing

What do you wear for your first time climbing?

Climbing gyms have taken the world by storm, and what was once a not-so-popular activity is now competed for in the Olympics. Although climbing has changed, what climbers wear hasn’t.

You’ll see less lycra nowadays, but the core of climbing clothing choices has remained the same.

What NOT to wear is just as important as what to wear for your first time climbing. Check out that section to avoid wearing the wrong things and ensure you’re fully prepared for your climbing experience!

So, what DO you wear for your first time climbing?

Simply, anything that is comfortable and allows you to move your body freely. Climbing requires a lot of bending, reaching, twisting, and contorting, so you’ll want to wear clothing that doesn’t restrict your movement.

For footwear, a pair of snug-fitting climbing shoes is recommended. These shoes are designed to provide maximum grip and support for your feet during climbs. Avoid wearing regular sneakers or bulky shoes as they can hinder your performance and increase the risk of injury. Pants are the go-to option when you start, so you have a little barrier when you bump your knee on the wall. Climbers commonly wear T-shirts because you’ll warm up from pulling your body up the wall.

But if the gym is super warm, or since you’ll exert a lot of energy, it’s nice to have more airflow to the legs with a pair of shorts.

The fabric you choose is up to you. You can wear something sportier, like ‘workout clothes’ that help wick moisture away from your body, or you can proudly display your efforts with a cotton option. However, keep in mind that moisture-wicking fabrics can keep you dry and comfortable during your climbs, making them a popular choice among climbers.

What NOT to wear for your first time climbing

Deciding on the correct outfit to climb in may seem daunting, but choose something comfortable, and you’ll be just fine. More importantly, you should avoid wearing the following clothing when climbing.

Wear Layers!

Sometimes, climbing gyms can feel like stepping into a grocery store’s freezer. Keeping cool is helpful to gym-goers because you’re sure to heat up when exerting yourself climbing the funky-colored walls.

If keeping warm in a cool environment is challenging, consider wearing layers to the climbing gym. You can always remove a sweatshirt or switch to shorts when you get too warm!

Everybody has a different internal body temperature; what works for someone else may not work for you.

Restrictive clothing

Tight-fitting clothing that doesn’t stretch. Pants like skinny jeans may try to come back in style, but they should be left at home. You can also just bring other clothes to change into at the climbing gym.

Climbing requires plenty of hip mobility, and you don’t want to rip your favorite pair of jeans when trying to raise your foot high on the wall.

Tight-fitting clothing is okay to wear when climbing, but you must make sure it is stretchy!

Too loose of clothing

Yes, even super loose clothing can hinder your climbing. This doesn’t mean when your pants fall down your hips; that’s a separate issue that a belt can fix. However, they’re too loose when your pant leg is wide enough to step on.

Imagine stepping on a foothold only to be caught in the fabric. You won’t go anywhere with the other foot because you’ve anchored yourself to the wall!

While an oversized, flowy T-shirt may feel comfortable, the loose fabric could restrict your vision, blocking your view of the footholds below you. Although this isn’t a huge issue, it’s something to consider when picking your outfit.

Certain jewelry

Most jewelry should be removed when climbing. This includes rings, long necklaces, large dangly earrings—anything that could get caught on a rope or climbing hold if you fall.

Bring a bag to the climbing gym and keep your jewelry safe when you hop on the wall. If you’re adamant about wearing a ring when climbing, look for a silicon one that won’t cause any injuries if it gets caught!

Dress for Success

If you couldn’t tell, there is no standard to what to wear for your first time climbing. While you should include a few golden standards (like not wearing jewelry), the rest of your clothing options are personal preference. You have the option to choose what makes you feel comfortable and confident on the wall.

Skinny jeans may be your look, and you’ll climb in them regardless of what anybody says, and that’s fine! However, you may not be as flexible as you need to be for specific climbs.

Long pant legs might be your fashion, and that’s okay, too. But you might change after you get stuck because you stepped on your clothes.

Ultimately, the goal is to wear what feels comfortable for you. Try out a few different options, like bringing layers, and feel out what works. You can switch it up the second time you climb! Remember, comfort is key in climbing attire.

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6 Tips to Level Up Your Bouldering

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Hey Boulder Bros, Here’s Why You Should Try Rope Climbing

Hey, boulder bros! Are you tired of pumping out on your project? Rope climbing could be the solution you’re looking for. Not only does climbing on a rope help train endurance, but it’s even statistically less dangerous.

Can Rope Climbing Help Your Bouldering?

Bouldering was originally a way to train for larger mountain ascents. When bouldering took the world by storm, it quickly became the most accessible way to start climbing. The only gear you need is a pair of climbing shoes. Or if you’re anything like Barefoot Charles, you don’t even need shoes!

But can the two climbing disciplines help each other?

It’s well understood that bouldering can improve your power endurance, which can help you explode while climbing routes that require big moves. Bouldering is also known for being a way to rehearse movements and develop technique.

Did you know that rope climbing can offer unique benefits to boulderers? It’s not just about endurance and confidence but also about exploring new climbing areas. Rope climbing can take your bouldering game to new heights, quite literally!

Develop More Confidence with Rope Climbing

One of the key advantages of rope climbing is safety. When bouldering, falling at the top of the wall can be risky. However, with rope climbing, especially top roping, you can practice falling safely and build your confidence without the fear of serious injury.

Climbing on a rope without much fall consequence, especially if you’re top roping, will help you improve your confidence at the top of the bouldering wall. You can practice looking down and being comfortable being so far off the ground.

Rope climbing will also help you plan to do any highballs. Developing confidence in trusting your feet or making precarious movements while on a rope will directly translate to bouldering at heights.

Rope Climbing Will Improve Your Endurance

Do you get pumped after ten moves? Do you want to try your project more than two times? Rope climbing can help.

Rope climbing involves being on the wall much longer than a boulder. By making two to three times the amount of moves on a rope climb, you’ll develop a newfound endurance that will let you boulder longer.

To improve your climbing rope endurance, simply spend as much time on the rope as possible. If you’re new to endurance training, the best way to improve is to keep climbing. Aim to climb 20 routes a week on a rope, whether top roping, lead climbing, or on an auto-belay.

Each climb doesn’t need to be at your limit; keep climbing, and endurance will come!

Explore New Places with Rope Climbing!

Climbing outside is a great way to explore the outdoors and see new things. If you keep climbing in the same bouldering area, even if it’s world-renowned, you’re missing out on what else is out there! Sure, you can take a trip to a new boulder field, but there might be classic rope climbing just around the corner.

Rope climbing can take you to new heights and climbing areas you have yet to consider! Even though there aren’t boulders, there are still thrilling places to explore. The sense of adventure in discovering these new areas can be incredibly exciting.

As human as it is to be a creature of comfort and revisit the same place, you can learn a lot by exploring new spots. Whether you learn about the land itself or what you can personally overcome, creating memories in new places is a fulfilling experience.

Learn New Skills!

It’s common to feel stagnant when you’ve learned all you can about something. Although there is always room for physical improvement, learning new technical skills can be rewarding.

Rope climbing requires a whole new level of techniques to learn. From mastering the figure eight knot to rope management to belaying, each new skill you acquire in rope climbing is a testament to your growth and dedication. This sense of accomplishment can be incredibly empowering.

Understanding the intricacies of safely climbing on a rope can also help when working on a highball! The knowledge needed to rope climb may seem overwhelming, but why not learn something new?

Just like when you were learning bouldering and needed many skills, such as spotting, pad management, and proper falling, rope climbing requires the same- just learning different skills!

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Title Card for Blog Post
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Climbing in the Olympics: What to Expect in 2024

The 2024 Paris Olympics are rapidly approaching, igniting a wave of anticipation and excitement among climbing enthusiasts. The opening ceremony, a grand spectacle, is set to captivate the world in just under two months, on July 26th. Climbing, a sport that has been steadily gaining popularity, is returning for its second time after a thrilling debut in the 2020 (2021) Tokyo Olympic Games. However, with this new stage comes some highly anticipated changes to the competition format and the opportunity for more athletes to take the stage, adding to the thrill and excitement of the event.

A Brief Recap of the Tokyo Olympics

In 2021, the Olympic Committee gave Sport Climbing two gold medals, meaning there could be one event for males and one for females where three athletes would podium. Typically, International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) competitions have three events athletes can medal in: Lead, boulder, and Speed. To remedy the situation, climbers had to qualify and compete in all three disciplines (lead, boulder, and speed) at the Tokyo Olympics. For those aware of the nuances in climbing, many athletes specialize in either boulder and lead or speed, as the training is very different for the latter. As exciting as it was to witness the inauguration of climbing at the Olympics, the format proved challenging for athletes who had to adopt new training plans to compete at a high level in all three disciplines.

Looking Ahead to Paris 2024

Fast forward to the approaching summer Olympics in Paris. The Olympic Committee, recognizing the immense talent and dedication of Sport Climbing athletes, has given the sport 12 medals, or four gold medal events, enabling a format change reflective of the IFSC competitions. This time, athletes have been able to compete to qualify for a spot in the Boulder & Lead or the Speed competition in Paris. This change not only creates a more familiar competition experience for the athletes but also opens up the opportunity for more climbers to represent their country on the biggest sports stage, a testament to their hard work and skill.

For those with more questions about the nitty-gritty details, we’ve answered some of the most common questions regarding climbing in the Olympics.

Climbing in the Olympics: What to Expect in 2024 Q&A

  • How many climbers will be in Paris?

Sixty-eight climbers will have the opportunity to compete in Paris. Twenty athletes per gender will compete in the Combined Boulder and lead discipline. The remaining 28 spots, divided into 14 men and 14 women, will go to speed climbers.

  • How many countries will be represented in climbing in Paris?

Each National Olympic Committee, representing a diverse range of countries, can have a maximum of two men and two women qualify for each event (Boulder & Lead, Speed). The official number of countries represented in Sport Climbing will be live at the end of June 2024. The final quotas are awaiting assignment after the conclusion of the Olympic Qualifier Series Part II: Budapest. This global representation in the event not only showcases the universality of climbing but also fosters a sense of connection and engagement among climbing fans worldwide.

  • What will the competitions look like?

Check out this short and simple video the official Olympic Committee published explaining how the climbing competitions will work in Paris and how they will determine a winner.

  • What are the dates for watching Climbing?

The Sport Climbing portion of the Olympic Games will take place over six days, starting Monday, August 5th, and ending Saturday, August 10th.

Times are listed as UTC+2:00

  • Monday, 5 August – 10:00 AM to 2:00 PM

Men’s Semi-final Boulder, Women’s Speed Seeding and Elimination Rounds

  • Tuesday, 6 August – 10:00 AM to 2:00 PM

Women’s Boulder Semi-final,
Men’s Speed Seeding and Elimination Rounds

  • Wednesday, 7 August – 10:00 AM to 1:15 PM

Men’s Semi-Final Lead, Women’s Speed Quarterfinals, Semifinals, and Finals

  • Thursday, 8 August – 10:00 AM to 1:15 PM

Women’s Semi-final Lead, Men’s Speed Quarterfinals, Semifinals, and Finals

  • Friday, 9 August – 10:15 AM to 1:20 PM

Men’s Boulder Final, Men’s Lead Final

  • Saturday, 10 August – 10:15 AM to 1:20 PM

Women’s Boulder Final, Women’s Lead Final

  • Who is representing the US in Paris?

US Speed Climbers Emma Hunt, Piper Kelly, and Samuel Watson have qualified. In Boulder, lead athletes Natalia Grossman, Jesse Grupper, and Colin Duffy have qualified. These athletes qualified in 2023 at either the FSC World Championship Bern 2023 or the Pan American Games 2023.

  • How many athletes can still qualify for the US and globally?
    [as of June 23, all spots have been claimed with the final spots going to Brooke Raboutou and Zach Hammer]

One quota spot remains for US females in the Boulder and Lead discipline. The four females competing for that spot are Brooke Raboutou (2020 Olympic Climber), Anastasia “Annie” Sanders, Kyra Condie (2020 Olympic Climber), and Kylie Cullen.

One quota spot remains for US males in the Speed competition. Three men, John Brosler, Zach Hammer, and Noah Bratschi, are competing in the Olympic Qualifier Series set to wrap up on June 23rd for the final spot.

Overall, 16 out of 40 athletes, eight from each gender, have qualified for Boulder and Lead. Seven men and seven women, out of 14 for each gender, have qualified for Speed.

Get ready because the 2024 Paris Olympics will be here before you know it, and 68 climbers, 40 in boulder and lead and 28 in Speed, will take the floor at the Le Bourget Climbing Venue just outside Paris, France, and fight for gold. The Le Bourget Climbing Venue is a state-of-the-art facility designed specifically for sport climbing, making it the perfect stage for the world’s best climbers to showcase their skills. With Speed separated from boulder and lead, you’ll witness the fastest climbers from around the globe go head to head. Boulder and lead athletes will vie to solve problems faster and climb higher than their competitors, aiming to score up to 200 points across both disciplines. Check out the IFSC Climbing Instagram for pictures of the venue, and read the pinned posts for more information on the Olympic qualification process, speed format guide, and boulder & lead format guide. The countdown is on, and it’s time to get excited to cheer on the climbers as they display incredible strength and athleticism!

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July Newsletter (2024)

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Everything You Need to Know about USA Team Trials 2024

From March 5th to 8th, 2024, a group of the top female and male American climbers gathered at the brand new Sportrock Climbing Centers Rio in Gaithersburg, MD, to vie for their spots on the U.S. National Team. The competition was divided into three disciplines: bouldering, sport climbing, and speed climbing. Bouldering involves climbing short, difficult routes without the use of ropes. Sport climbing is a form of rock climbing that relies on permanent anchors fixed to the rock for protection. Speed climbing is a race to the top of a 15-meter wall. Let’s dive into what went down daily in Gaithersburg and then recap the results.

 

Weekend Breakdown

With the results out of the way, what did the competitors face over the weekend leading up to the final roster selection? Depending on the discipline(s) they competed in and their success, they could have climbed anywhere between one and four days.

 

Tuesday, March 5th: Speed and Lead

On Tuesday morning, Speed Trials began with a Benchmark round. Following the benchmark round, 16 women and 22 men competed in the qualification round in the early afternoon. In the evening, eight women and 16 men competed in the finals.

 

Tuesday also marked the start of the lead qualification round, which was split into speed qualifications and finals. Thirty-two men and twenty-four women competed in the qualification rounds, each having to climb two set routes.

 

Wednesday, March 6th: Lead Semis and Finals

Wednesday was all about lead. In the morning, 25 women and 25 men faced down their one route as the competition format shifted to onsight (with isolation). In the evening, the top 8 men and women advancing from semis competed in lead finals.

 

Thursday, March 7th: Boulder Qualifications

Thursday was a late start day, with no climbing in the morning. Every round of the boulder competition was an onsight format with isolation. Thirty-one women and 35 men checked in to isolation and competed in the first round.

 

Friday, March 8th: Boulder Semis and Finals

On the morning of the last day of competition, twenty men and twenty women advanced to the semi-finals. The field then narrowed to six men and six women for the finals.

 

2024 Team Trials Results

male climber climbing in an indoor climbing gym

While many new National Team Members saw themselves at the top of the podium at the end of the weekend, finishing first was not the deciding factor for the newest USA Team members. USA Climbing keeps track of elite competitor rankings via a points system. This system awards points based on the competitor’s performance in various pre-determined competitions, including the Team Trials. The more points a competitor earns, the higher their ranking. At the end of this weekend, two new females and males joined the boulder, lead, and speed 2024 rosters based on their points standing. The other 2024 National Team Rosters climbers have pre-qualified through different events, such as the U.S. National Championships, ranking among the world’s elite, or qualifying for the Olympics.

 

Boulder

Walking away from the weekend are two happy men and women who added their names to the 2024 Boulder National Team. Melina Costanza and Helen Gillett (trials bouldering champion) will join Kyra Condie, Natalia Grossman, Brooke Raboutou, and Annie Sanders on the World Cup Circuit this year. The World Cup Circuit is a series of international climbing competitions, where the best climbers from around the world compete for the top spot. On the men’s side, Dillon Countryman and Hugo Hoyer (men’s trials bouldering champion) will join Colin Duffy and Jesse Grupper. These four men will represent the USA in the World Cup Circuit, showcasing their skills and competing against the world’s best climbers.

 

Lead

For the women, Annie Sanders took the gold and earned a spot along with Melina Costanza on the 2024 Lead National Team. Annie’s performance was nothing short of spectacular, as she flawlessly navigated the challenging route, showcasing her strength and agility. The rest of the women’s Lead National Team roster is as follows: Kyra Condie, Kylie Cullen, Natalia Grossman, and Brooke Raboutou. These women, each with their unique climbing style and strengths, are sure to make a formidable team. Declan Osgood and Hugo Hoyer went first and second in the lead portion of the team trials, earning their spots on the 2024 Lead National team alongside Jesse Grupper and Colin Duffy. Their performances were a testament to their skill and dedication, as they tackled the difficult route with precision and speed.

 

Speed

Sophia Curcio and Kaitlyn Bone, the first and second-place finishers in the women’s speed trials, will join Emma Hunt and Piper Kelly on the 2024 Speed National Team. Noah Bratschi, the men’s Speed winner at the Team trials, and Zachary Hammer, the fourth-place finisher, will join John Brosler and Sam Watson to round out the men on the 2024 Speed National Team Roster.

 

And that’s a wrap on the thrilling and adrenaline-pumping 2024 USA National Team Trials! It was an electrifying weekend for the athletes and the newly opened host gym, Sportrock Rio, and a riveting watch for all spectators and climbing fans via the live stream on Outside Watch. (Head to Outside Watch to check out the archived live streams from the event!) Get ready to be on the edge of your seat as the newest team members and seasoned veterans tackle the global competition in the upcoming World Cup Series and in Paris at the 2024 Olympics!

 

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Does Rock Climbing Help to Build Muscle?
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Does Rock Climbing Help to Build Muscle?

 

Rock climbing is an activity that helps build muscle because it requires strength, focus, and persistence. From the outside, rock climbing looks like you need strong fingers and forearms to perform well. While it’s true that these will help you climb, they aren’t the only muscles you should pay attention to when trying to improve your climbing.

 

Many modern rock climbers recognize the need for cross-training. While climbing is an excellent way to build muscle, it’s crucial to understand how it can lead to muscle imbalances. Discover how climbing can strengthen your muscles and why it’s equally important to target different muscles off the wall to maintain a balanced physique.

 

Does Rock Climbing Help to Build Muscle?

black and white photo of a man climbing a wall

Yes, rock climbing helps to build muscle. You’re pulling and pushing your bodyweight up a wall countless times, so it better builds muscle!

 

Muscles that are frequently used while climbing and help to develop them are:

 

Forearms and Grip Strength: Rock climbing includes grabbing various holds that require finger, grip, and forearm strength.

 

Upper Body: The largest muscle groups that are built while climbing include the biceps, triceps, shoulders, and back. Pulling and pushing yourself up a climbing wall engages each of these muscles.

 

Core: From staying close to the wall to holding difficult body positions, the core is engaged to help move your body more efficiently. That includes the abdominals, obliques, and lower back.

 

Lower Body: While not used as much, your quadriceps and glutes are significant for helping push yourself up the wall.

 

By engaging in regular climbing sessions, you’ll not only enhance your muscle strength in these groups but also have a blast while doing so! Whether you’re conquering an overhang route that challenges your core to keep your feet on the wall or executing powerful shoulder movements on a dead-vertical wall, climbing will help sculpt these muscles while you’re enjoying yourself!

 

Can I use Climbing as my Only Form of Muscle-Building Exercise?

 

It is not recommended to use climbing as your only source of muscle building. Climbing doesn’t build muscle evenly throughout your body, and climbers tend to favor routes that suit their strengths, which only develops these muscles. However, climbing is still a great way to build strength and endurance, and when combined with other exercises, it can provide a well-rounded muscle-building workout.

 

Take a climber who only looks for delicate slab climbs; while they may have great calf and finger strength, they may lack shoulder and back muscles needed for more powerful climbing.

 

Even if you are the type of climber who seeks out all styles of climbs, you’ll only develop muscles that are directly related to performing climbing moves. While many muscles are used when climbing, they aren’t all used equally and can create an imbalance.

 

What Muscles Are NOT Used When Climbing?

 

The muscles not used as much when climbing are the legs, chest, and triceps. You still use these when climbing, but less than the first group because you perform pulling movements.

 

The problem with using climbing alone as a muscle-building exercise is that it’s easy to develop an imbalance in your muscles. Muscle imbalances occur when certain muscles are stronger or more developed than others. This can lead to poor posture or cause increased stress on joints and tendons. For instance, if your back muscles are significantly stronger than your chest muscles, you may find it difficult to maintain an upright posture, which can affect your climbing technique and efficiency. Cross-training can help prevent these imbalances by ensuring that all your muscle groups are equally strong and developed.

 

How Do I Deal with Muscle Imbalances?

 

You must strengthen your antagonist muscles to ensure you don’t develop any muscle imbalances, or if you already have and want to fix them. Your antagonist muscles are the opposite of your pulling muscles. When pulling, as you do when climbing, you primarily use the forearms, biceps, shoulders, and back. The opposite, or antagonist, is your pushing muscles: chest, triceps, and legs. Strengthening these muscles will help maintain a balance in your muscle development.

 

Rest assured, there’s a solution to muscle imbalances. Strengthening your push muscles will not only help correct any existing imbalances but also enhance your power in any movement. Even if you’re feeling sore from a climbing session, you can still work on your push muscles the day after, as these muscle groups won’t be as fatigued.

 

Take Away

 

Rock climbing is an excellent activity for building muscle and having fun. But remember that climbing doesn’t build muscle everywhere in the body and, over time, can cause muscle imbalances that can result in poor posture or pain. To ensure you don’t overdevelop some muscles over others, strengthen the antagonist muscles you use for climbing.

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The Dos and Don'ts of Finding a Climbing Partner
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The Dos and Don’ts of Finding a Climbing Partner

Finding a climbing partner is like discovering a hidden gem in a vast landscape. It’s a thrilling journey with many variables to consider. You’ll likely ask yourself a few questions: Do our schedules align? Are we looking for the same thing from climbing? Do they seem like a nice person? And most importantly, are they safe? The excitement of finding that perfect climbing partner is unparalleled.

A climbing partner can either enhance or jeopardize your climbing experience. The wrong partners can flake on you, only want to climb their projects, have no consideration for yours, or, unfortunately, not use the safest tactics. Safety should always be a top priority in climbing partnerships, and choosing your partner wisely is crucial.

The climbing community is a vibrant and tightly-knit group of individuals bonded by a shared passion for the unique sport of climbing. With the influx of new climbers, it can be daunting to decide when to take the leap and climb with someone new. However, remember, you’re not alone in this journey. The community is here to guide and support you. Follow along for the dos and don’ts of finding a climbing partner, and feel the reassuring sense of security that comes from being part of a larger group.

 

Ask questions!

DO ask how long somebody has been climbing and what their experience level is.

You want to get a feel for somebody’s climbing knowledge before you hop on a route with them at the belay. Ask your new potential partner questions to determine if they’re an excellent fit to climb with.

Some potential questions you can ask:

How long have you been climbing?

Where did you learn how to climb/belay?

What kind of belay device do you use?

How often do you inspect your gear?

 

If any of their answers don’t sit well with you, there is nothing wrong with not wanting to climb with them. If a 5.12 lead climber is looking for a partner, they won’t ask somebody who just took a belay course to catch them on their project. Pick your partner wisely.

DON’T assume that everybody in the gym knows what they’re doing. Climbing has become extremely popular; many newcomers want to identify with the climbing community. Every climber is part of the climbing community, of course. Still, many people like to portray themselves as experienced climbers even though they have only been bouldering for a few months.

It takes countless hours of practice to understand safe climbing and belaying techniques and how to identify them quickly from the ground. Pairing up with someone after learning their name can lead to avoidable accidents. Take your time choosing somebody to trust your life with!

How to find a climbing partner

man climbing a rock.

  1. Approach method

The quick and dirty way to find a climbing partner is to approach somebody at the gym and ask if they’d like to climb together! A tip is to observe this climber belaying before you ask, or you could get into a hairy situation. You can learn a lot about a person by watching them belay. If you’re unsure about their experience, ask them about their climbing history and safety practices.

Remember, you can ask the above questions before allowing them to give you a catch. Go with your gut. If you feel something is wrong when asking them about their experience, there is nothing wrong with changing your mind.

 

  1. Partner forms

Many climbing gyms have an option to fill out a partner form. Typically, they’ll have a bulletin board posted in a common area where you can seek out potential climbing partners. That is a great way to search for partners without scouring the facility.

A good partner form will include the climber’s name, age, experience level, availability, and even their climbing goals. Don’t see a viable partner on the board at your gym? Fill out a form yourself and stick it up there; maybe somebody else is looking but hasn’t filled out a form yet.

 

  1. Online

Finding partners online is great because you can reach a wider audience. Most people are online today, so you have a higher chance of finding somebody to climb with than if you sat in the gym all day.

Also, if you plan to travel to a new climbing area where you don’t know anybody, finding an online partner is your go-to option. Plenty of forums and groups exist to help you find partners.

Use Mountain Project’s Partner Finder! This platform allows you to search for climbing partners based on specific criteria. You can narrow your search by age, location, the grade you climb, and what style of climbing. It’s a great tool to find like-minded climbers in your area.

You can also use Facebook to search for climbing groups nearby! Plenty of gym and outdoor groups are filled with climbers searching for partners.

Reddit is also a great resource! Just post where you’re looking for a partner, and you’ll find people from all over the world.

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