The Common Climber Injuries

Three of the most common types of injuries that climbers often face are finger, wrist, and shoulder injuries. Whether caused by an acute trauma or overuse, these injuries can sideline a climber for weeks or months, depending on their severity.
Much of the discussion in the climbing world centers on preventing and treating finger injuries, including tendon strains or pulley tears. However, your body operates as a kinetic chain. In an upper-body-dominant sport such as climbing, shoulder weakness can lead to wrist issues. Wrist issues can, in turn, cause finger issues. It also works in reverse, with problems in the fingers causing injuries further up the chain due to compensated movement patterns.

Preventing the Injuries Before They Happen

Incorporating strength training can reduce the likelihood of injury before it happens. Instead of rehabbing an injury after the fact, the goal is to prevent injuries before they occur or with a prehab routine. Unlike a traditional lifting workout, a prehab workout targets specific muscles and movements to strengthen key muscles and joints and improve mechanics related to your activity.
For climbers, a good prehab routine includes exercises to strengthen the shoulders and wrists. An effective routine can take as little as 20 minutes when done twice to three times per week. There are five key exercises for the wrists and five for the shoulders.

Prehab Wrist Exercises

Wrist Extensions

Wrist extensions target your forearm extensors. Using a 2.5- or 5-pound dumbbell, find a bench, chair, or flat surface. Rest your arm on a flat surface, with your palm facing down and your wrist and dumbbell hanging off the edge. Using your wrist, lift the dumbbell until your wrist is in a neutral position. Lower the dumbbell and repeat 10-20 times per side.

Writst Curls

Wrist curls target your forearm flexors. Using a 2.5- or 5-pound dumbbell, find a bench, chair, or flat surface. Rest your arm on a flat surface, with your palm facing up, and your wrist and dumbbell hanging off the edge. Curl the dumbbell up by pulling your wrist toward your forearm. Lower the dumbbell, letting it roll as far down your fingers as is comfortable. The further you let it roll down your fingers, the more you’ll engage the tendons in your fingers.  Repeat 10-20 times per side.

Wrist Rotations

Wrist rotations strengthen the pronators, supinators, flexors, and extensors. Using a 2.5- or 5-pound dumbbell, find a bench, chair, or flat surface. Rest your arm on a flat surface with your wrist and dumbbell hanging off the edge. It doesn’t matter whether you start with your palm up or down. Keeping your elbow stationary, rotate your wrist between palm-down and palm-up. Repeat 10-20 times per side.

Radial Deviations

Using a 2.5- or 5-pound dumbbell, find a bench, chair, or flat surface. Rest your arm on a flat surface with your wrist and dumbbell hanging off the edge. Hold the dumbbell at the end closest to you. Pull your wrist up, moving your thumb toward your arm. Return to a neutral position. Repeat 10-20 times per side.

Ulnar Deviations

Using a 2.5- or 5-pound dumbbell, find a bench, chair, or flat surface. Rest your arm on a flat surface with your wrist and dumbbell hanging off the edge. Hold the dumbbell at the end furthest from you. Pull your wrist down, moving your pinky finger away from your arm. Return to a neutral position. Repeat 10-20 times per side.

Prehab Shoulders Exercises


Internal and External Rotation

Select a 2.5-pound or 5-pound dumbbell. Sit on the ground and prop the arm holding the dumbbell on your knee. When resting on your knee, your elbow should be at about shoulder height. Holding onto the dumbbell, rotate your arm down so it’s parallel to the ground. Return it to an upright position. Repeat 10-20 times per side.
Dumbbell Frontal Raises
Select dumbbells ranging from 2.5 to 10 pounds, depending on your current strength level. Remaining standing with the dumbbells in your hands and arms at your side. Keeping your arms straight, raise them in front of you until they are parallel with the ground. Keep your palms facing down. Focus on initiating the movement from your shoulders. Complete two rounds with 10 repetitions in each round.

Dumbbell Lateral Raises

Select dumbbells ranging from 2.5 to 10 pounds, depending on your current strength level. Remaining standing with the dumbbells in your hands and arms at your side. Keeping your arms straight, raise them out to the side until they are parallel to the ground. Keep your palms facing down. Focus on initiating the movement from your shoulders. Complete two rounds with 10 repetitions in each round.

Overhead Press

Select dumbbells ranging from 2.5 to 10 pounds, depending on your current strength level. Start with your arms out to the sides, elbows bent at 90 degrees so your hands point upward. Keep your palms facing forward. Press the dumbbells up and overhead, gently touching them together at the top of the press. Slowly lower to the starting position. Complete two rounds with 10 repetitions in each round.
There’s no better time to start than today. Cue up your favorite playlist, YouTube video, or podcast, and go through these five wrist and shoulder prehab exercises. By strengthening these key areas, you’ll help stay ahead of any potential injuries that other climbers may encounter. Remember to be consistent and incorporate the exercises 2-3x per week for maximum benefits.